Why move to Alentejo
If you're dreaming of romantic isolation, then Alentejo is for you. Dubbed the affordable Tuscany or undiscovered Provence; it's a serene, enchanting, fairytale retreat.
Alentejo is a large south-central region made of flat open plains and a hilly coast of coves. Its name means Beyond the Tagus, and the southern riverbank irrigates the flatlands which nurture olive groves, wineries and the famous Portuguese cork oaks. The beaches are warm, clean and mostly deserted; this is the least populated region in Portugal, making it enticing for international buyers looking to escape the crowds.
There are very few large cities, but the undisputed capital is Evora. Awarded UNESCO world heritage status, its architecture hasn’t changed much over 500 years. Surrounded by 14th century Moorish city walls lies a Gothic cathedral and cloisters, a preserved Roman temple with adjoining baths from the 1st century AD, and Portugal’s second oldest university. Although it’s not as culturally international as some of Portugal’s cities, it offers stellar regional cuisine, internationally revered wines and a vibrant nightlife (thanks to the large student population).
Other urban areas include Elvas, a famous frontier fortress town on the Tagus surrounded by star-shaped walls, and Villa Nova de Milfontes, an endearing resort town where those in the know go on holiday. Most of the inhabitants of Alentejo live in quaint whitewashed villages dotted with medieval ruins, monuments and castles that abound in the countryside.
This countryside itself is either used for agriculture or completely wild. Ancient oaks scatter shade across grassy plains where wild horses frolic. Exotic species like terrapins, otters and greater flamingos are the norm in the river tributaries and lakes. Plantations include wine, olives, cereals, eucalyptus and cork. The only people to be seen are either working the land, hiking, or birdwatching. Many regional parks protect the diverse landscapes. The Southwest Alentejo and Costa Vicentina National Park covers a vast area to the south of Lisbon and the craggy Guadiana Valley National Park borders with Algarve.
The food in Alentejo is hearty and rustic: Fill up with local staples including salt cod, black pig and soups flavoured with locally-grown herbs, not forgetting, of course, all the fresh seafood. Although wine production here isn’t as famous as in the Douro Valley, the Alentejo region sells 4 in 10 of all wine bottles within Portugal. The growers boast modernised Quintas (wine houses) that are proud of their progressive agri-practises. Many have elegant tasting rooms, and some offer tours or make-your-own wine sessions for visitors.
The coves and bays around the coastline offer gentle, sloping sands with relatively shallow waters. The Atlantic waves attract surfers, but you’ll see very few people most of the time. This is partly down to accessibility; due to the rocky surrounds, there aren’t many built-up zones directly on the coastline, so accommodation is hard to find unless you’re willing to walk for 20 minutes or more. Even with a car, you’re over two hours drive from the closest international airport. However, the upside is far less litter, a greater sense of privacy, and plentiful stunning and completely unadulterated habitats to explore.
