Over the past 16 ‘Covid’ weeks, the Spanish government, in close co-operation with police and security forces, has monitored and enforced the lockdown. Initially, this was very strict, but now with the numbers of infected people and deaths declining, life after lockdown is seeing a phased return to a new normal in Spain.
In our numerous Zoom / Google Hangouts / WhatsApp / Teams / Houseparty calls, we’ve been comparing notes with friends and family in different parts of the world. And it is clear that lockdown and the approach to easing is different, depending on where you live. So, this blog is about what it’s been like in Spain over the past few months during the different phases, and about our experience of the new normality.
Freedom!
The overwhelming sensation every time we progress to another phase is one of relief to have more freedom. In practical terms, I don’t do anything very differently. I’ve not visited restaurants every night, nor have I gone on massive shopping sprees or visited the cinema quite yet. But the feeling that I could and might, if and when I choose to do so, is very welcome!
We can go for walks …
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Initial phases (early May – early June)
It’s only once you’ve been in very strict lockdown that you truly appreciate the relaxation of the law. How lovely to be able to go for walks without the worry of being seen! How amazing for Hilary and I to be in the car and go supermarket shopping together! What a great feeling to drive to the Subbetica mountains for a big day trip!
Excursion in the Subbeticas
With the first release of lockdown rules has come a renewed sense of wonder at the beautiful country we live in, with its mountains and the seaside – oh no, wait, the sea was not accessible to us in the earlier phases – we were confined to Cordoba province only.
The plus side of this restriction was that we explored part of our province that we’d never seen before. We spotted some walking trails near to the town of Hornachuelos. What a delightful place, and how fantastic to be sightseeing once again, just like we used to (though with masks on). This was also the day that we had a coffee on a terrace, and lunch out. No cooking and no washing up for the first time in 14 weeks, a welcome break!
Coffee out on a terrace!
Phase 3 – three provinces in one day
Phase 3 came into being on 8th June, and lasted 2 weeks. The big difference for us was that we could cross provincial borders and so all of Andalucia was open to us once again. To celebrate this, we took the car and drove to Alcala La Real, a beautiful town with a splendid castle on top of a hill about 90 minutes drive from our house – and it meant crossing three provincial borders in one day (Granada, Cordoba, Jaen).
A beautiful walk in the Jaen countryside, a café americano con hielo (black coffee with lots of ice, great in hot weather) in the local park and, to top it all, a woman selling boxes of cherries in a country lane. We bought two kgs and they didn’t last long!
Alcala La Real
With Phase 3, restaurants and bars started to open with up to 50% capacity, though still with two-metre social distancing between tables. And shops too, as long as they took measures in terms of number of shoppers and regular cleaning. Though not every retail and catering outlet has opened up yet.
When we drove to El Torcal, a nature reserve in the Sierra del Torcal mountain range near Antequera, we arrived at 3pm looking for something to eat. We saw tables and chairs on the terrace and were looking forward to lunch, when the waitress told us that she could only serve drinks and crisps. We decided not to stay and instead found a delightful little roadside restaurant with the most beautiful Porre Antequera (the description of cold soup doesn’t really do this dish justice), and a lovely glass of local wine.
El Torcal
The new normal
The new normal is a big improvement, because the Spanish borders are open (mostly) and so flights are beginning to take off again within the Schengen zone. Unless there is a sudden increase in infections and/or deaths linked to Coronavirus, it is likely that this will continue, and it will be possible to visit Spain once again. I can’t wait to see family and friends!
Malaga Feria 2019 – it may take a while before big crowds can get together again
On the beach
I love a day’s lazing on the sand and swimming in the sea and we decided to test the new normal in Spain and have a day out in the glorious sunshine. And what an experience it turned out to be! The beach was amazingly quiet, with lots of space for everyone, and restaurants open and welcoming – though not busy. We noticed some people in uniform (casual and very cool, black shorts, white shirt, orange backpack) walking along the beach in pairs, to ensure that social distancing was maintained. What a great job that must be: strolling up and down the beach for 8 hours a day in the sun with a little sea breeze in a pleasant temperature of 24C!
We also visited the town of Nerja, which is normally very crowded and touristy. But we got there at the tail end of the siesta and Nerja was still waking up and very peaceful. The terraces were beginning to fill, though with tables more than 1.5 metres apart. The crowds will come again, I’m sure, but I’m guessing that this summer it may remain quieter than usual. So, ironically, a great time to visit!
Beach patrol
Nerja, waking up post siesta
Masks in the new normal
Masks must be worn in closed places (including shops and stores), as well as on the street, on public transport and in public places where a 1.5-metre ‘social distance’ cannot be maintained. And there will continue to be some restrictions on gatherings, including the fiestas and processions that Spain is famous for. So it won’t be quite the same as before, but we are moving in the right direction. And Spain remains a wonderful country to live in and to visit – masks or no masks!
The statue of King Alfonso XII in Nerja wearing a mask
